Friday, June 17, 2011
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Chrome installation
On the windshield the top two pieces of stainless go into the rubber seal, after the gasket is on the glass. Once the glass is pulled in and your sure it it centered in the opening, start with the bottom of the top two pieces. The ends have a hole that a screw goes trru and into the pillar. The install the two corner pieces. They slide up onto the upper pieces and set in against the pillar. the front end of the corner have a retainer that stick out towards the front of the car. A screw goes in eachof those as well. Once that is done, you install the lower two pieces. you have to be careful and slide each lower piece onto the lower trim clips that are screwed to the cowl. Be sure you put the center joint coveron before you slide the two pieces all the way in. Each of the lower pieces have a clip right in the apex of the curve. It has a stub that goes into a hole on the cowl. Before you put it into the hole, put a pieceof strip caulk around the base of the stud so when it tighten down it will seal the hole. The nut for that clip goes on from under the dash. Now as you put the lower piece in place, be sure to take your time and guide it into the end of the corner piece you installed earlier. You will have to bow the moulding just a little to get it in. When you tighten the stud clip, itwill help pull the corner pieces in tight againts the car.
On the back glass, first put the moulding clips on the pinch weld around the opening. The set you buy comes with I think? 12 clips? I add 4 extra. one extra on each side right inthe curve on the outer end of the lower moulding and one extra on either side of center at the bottom about 3 inches from center each wat. The moulding if bad about tring to rise back out in the areas. Next put the rubber on the glass and pull it in the car. By pull it in , I mean you use a piece of small cord. Lay the cord down into the channel that goes over the pinch weld.Cross the two ends in the center inside and tape them against the glass. have someone help by putting a little presure on the outside of the glass as you pull it in. Once it's in then the stainless goes on. There are two upper outer corner pieces (small L shape with a longstud on the back side). Put the upper piece across and once you satisfied it is centered, tap on it with the heal of your hand. No hammers here). Tap wrap strip caulk around the stud on the corner caps. Guide the corners onto the top and lower piece while pushing the little stud into the hole in the pinch weld oneach side. You may want a helper inside start the little nut on the clip while you hold in on the corner piece. Once they are tight your done. One note, dont't over tighten the corners. They will pull in and bow up on ends. Then you buy two more.
On the back glass, first put the moulding clips on the pinch weld around the opening. The set you buy comes with I think? 12 clips? I add 4 extra. one extra on each side right inthe curve on the outer end of the lower moulding and one extra on either side of center at the bottom about 3 inches from center each wat. The moulding if bad about tring to rise back out in the areas. Next put the rubber on the glass and pull it in the car. By pull it in , I mean you use a piece of small cord. Lay the cord down into the channel that goes over the pinch weld.Cross the two ends in the center inside and tape them against the glass. have someone help by putting a little presure on the outside of the glass as you pull it in. Once it's in then the stainless goes on. There are two upper outer corner pieces (small L shape with a longstud on the back side). Put the upper piece across and once you satisfied it is centered, tap on it with the heal of your hand. No hammers here). Tap wrap strip caulk around the stud on the corner caps. Guide the corners onto the top and lower piece while pushing the little stud into the hole in the pinch weld oneach side. You may want a helper inside start the little nut on the clip while you hold in on the corner piece. Once they are tight your done. One note, dont't over tighten the corners. They will pull in and bow up on ends. Then you buy two more.
Monday, June 13, 2011
For Sale
Hi! I'm selling the Chevy Bel-Air 4 door for $8,000. The car needs little to finish it up. Some new moulding for the doors, maybe a new interior but it does have the original one but not in best of shape. Any other question just post them on the blog. Thank you!
Back glass and windshield dechromeing.
This will come in handy for those who have never dechrome a car or replace the glass on tri-five before.
Removal :
Windshield trims come off as follow. Remove the wiper bezels, look under the dash at the apex of the curve on each side and you will find a nut on the inside. Should take a 3/8 socket (deep well) . Once they are off, pull outward slightly and the moulding will come out from under the corner piece near the door. You can then slide the moulding outward and off the clips. The corners are held by a small screw on the front corner( seen only after the front lower mouldings are off) and one screw on the rear of the corner witch is on the door jamb. Once those two are out , pull outward slightly and down. It will slip off the upper piece. Once it is off , there will be a screw in each upper piece down at the bottom where the corner moulding covers them.The upper two halves stays in the windshield gasket when you take the glass out. The gasket has a channel that the stainless fits into.
The rear is different. On each outside upper corner you will see a small 'L' shaped piece. On the inside there is a nut on the stud on the moulding. The upper and lower piece that run across side have clips on the window opening pinch weld that sick up towards the stainless trim. You have to use a reveal moulding tool. The tool has a "T" shaped end and is very thin. You put the "T" end under the trim and hold the handle at about a 45' angle to the stainless. Slide it along and you will fell the clips. When you get to one hold a little pressure against the clip and then move the handle of the tool toward 90'. The clip will release the stainless. Don't expect the stainless to just pop off. You may have to go across a couple of times until they are all loose. Once the stainless is off , you can push the glass out from the inside while rolling the inner flap on the gasket down toward the glass. If your replacing the gasket , your golden. Just take a box knife and cut the rubber flap off the inside and lift the glass out. The windshield comes out the same way once the stainless is off.
Next time I'll show you the installation process.
Removal :
Windshield trims come off as follow. Remove the wiper bezels, look under the dash at the apex of the curve on each side and you will find a nut on the inside. Should take a 3/8 socket (deep well) . Once they are off, pull outward slightly and the moulding will come out from under the corner piece near the door. You can then slide the moulding outward and off the clips. The corners are held by a small screw on the front corner( seen only after the front lower mouldings are off) and one screw on the rear of the corner witch is on the door jamb. Once those two are out , pull outward slightly and down. It will slip off the upper piece. Once it is off , there will be a screw in each upper piece down at the bottom where the corner moulding covers them.The upper two halves stays in the windshield gasket when you take the glass out. The gasket has a channel that the stainless fits into.
The rear is different. On each outside upper corner you will see a small 'L' shaped piece. On the inside there is a nut on the stud on the moulding. The upper and lower piece that run across side have clips on the window opening pinch weld that sick up towards the stainless trim. You have to use a reveal moulding tool. The tool has a "T" shaped end and is very thin. You put the "T" end under the trim and hold the handle at about a 45' angle to the stainless. Slide it along and you will fell the clips. When you get to one hold a little pressure against the clip and then move the handle of the tool toward 90'. The clip will release the stainless. Don't expect the stainless to just pop off. You may have to go across a couple of times until they are all loose. Once the stainless is off , you can push the glass out from the inside while rolling the inner flap on the gasket down toward the glass. If your replacing the gasket , your golden. Just take a box knife and cut the rubber flap off the inside and lift the glass out. The windshield comes out the same way once the stainless is off.
Next time I'll show you the installation process.
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Chevy restoration
Hi! I finally finish with the paint job on my 1956 Chevy Bel-Air and it looks awesome. It has been a 3 year process on a poor mans budget. The vehicle a purchase from a lady who posted the car in craigslist and to my surprise she lived a block away from me. Her father in law just passed away and her husband and her self wanted to sell the car do to the fact that it remain them of the loved one that just passed and it was to painful for them , so I step in and made an offer and she was mine. She was a 4 door model less desire but I didn not care she was complete and ready to be restored. The color were Laural Green and Crocus Yellow and that is the color she got. She is basically original including the 235 6L engine. Yesterday I installed the back door panel, they are the original one that came with the car. The vehicle need some work but it has come a long way from were it was 3 years ago. I will keep you informed of her progress.
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